Review: Nutbourne Vineyards, West Sussex

My first visit to Nutbourne was a bit opportunistic. I had tickets for an open day at Nyetimber, just a few minutes around the corner, and decided to stop here first. I left knowing it was a matter of when, not if, I'd return, and 10 months later I find myself back to Pulborough, this time with friends, a toddler, and dog in tow.

The Gladwin Family

The vines at Nutbourne were first planted in 1979, making this one of the oldest working vineyards in England. The Gladwin family bought the estate in 1991 and have been here ever since - over 35 years now - with every member playing a specific and visible role in the operation.

Peter, the patriarch, joined us at the start of the tour on my first visit to give his take on the history of English wine and where it's heading. Having been here since the early nineties, watching the industry transform from cottage curiosity to genuine world-class producer, he is about as well-placed as anyone to hold that conversation. Bridget, his wife, can often be found running the cellar door and is also the artist behind the label designs - her paintings appear on the bottles, on the winery walls, and in the family's London restaurants. There are three sons - Gregory is the farmer and winemaker, Oliver is the creative chef who designs the menus for events and the restaurants, while Richard runs the front of house for the Local & Wild restaurant group, which the family operates in London. The restaurants, naturally, serve Nutbourne wine. We also met Gregory's wife, Lani, on our most recent visit, who manages the poly-tunnel that contributes to produce for picnics and events.

Knowing all of this before you arrive adds something to the visit, but you're likely to pick most of it up just by being here. When we visited, family members were coming and going in the way that only happens when a place is genuinely someone's home rather than a managed experience.

The Visit

On my first visit, a guided Saturday morning tour, we were guided inside and offered tea, coffee and cake while we waited, which sums up the kind of welcoming atmosphere at Nutbourne.

The tour takes you through part of the vineyard's 24 acres of south-facing vines 0 a warm, protected microclimate sheltered by the South Downs, with the same green sand soil that runs under much of Champagne. There are eight grape varieties planted across the estate: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc for the sparkling wines, rosé and red; and Bacchus, Huxelrebe and Reichensteiner for the Sussex Reserve field blend. Three different trellising systems are in use, which permits a deep dive into viticulture if Nutbourne isn't your first vineyard rodeo.

You're also very welcome to have a self-guided tour of the vineyard, which we did on the second visit. Make sure you don't miss the chicekn coop or the alpacas, and of course, bring a drink for the journey.

Then there is the windmill. It's a genuinely old thing, and inside it you'll find - I am not sure quite how else to put this - a collection of taxidermy and assorted curiosities that is the most unexpected thing I have encountered at an English vineyard. Strange and oddly wonderful in equal measure.

Wine Tasting at Nutbourne

The tasting on the guided tour is one of the most generous I've come across. There were at least 6 wines on offer, and they even added an extra pour to compensate for the poor weather, which says a lot about how they operate. When I had to leave slightly early to make it to Nyetimber as the tour overran slightly the tour guide made a point of quickly getting me a glass of their sparkling rosé so I didn't leave without trying the full range. No vineyard has ever made me feel unwelcome, but there is a spectrum, and Nutbourne sits firmly at the end labelled come in and make yourself at home. This place rewards slowing down, so don't make my mistake by giving yourself somewhere else to be.

The signature wine is the Sussex Reserve Field Blend, and on the tour they'll pour you a shot glass of it in front of the vines used to make it: Bacchus, Huxelrebe and Reichensteiner. It's English hedgerow in a glass - crisp and herbaceous, what the word terroir was made for. It's also one of the more affordable wines you'll find in the English vineyard circuit, which is partly a function of how long-established the estate is: the costs of getting a vineyard off the ground were settled a long time ago.

On my recent visit we got a tasting flight - you can select from almost their entire range, so if you're happy to share with friends it's very easy to enjoy (almost) everything Nutbourne has to offer. My pick of the bunch was the Barrel Fermented Chardonnay - creaminess, apricot, and a touch of funk that makes this a pour to be savoured.

The Cellar Door

If you're skipping the guided tour head to the cellar door for a bottle, glass, or a flight and treat yourself to a platter while you're at it. You can currently choose from the Cheese, Paté or Farm Table platter (think sausage rolls and quiche).

As mentioned, dogs are welcome on the vineyard and were welcomed on the tour last year, but they are not allowed in the inside tasting area. Thankfully there are plenty of spots around the estate to sit with a glass in the sunshine - or undercover if the weather doesn't play nice.

As well as wine and platter, the cellar door shop stocks Gregory's meat and produce from the estate alongside the wines, which feels entirely consistent with the Local & Wild ethos that runs through everything the family does.

The Verdict

While there is plenty of care at Nutbourne, there is a welcome lack of polish in the sense of a carefully managed visitor experience built around a brand. Instead there is something that can't be manufactured: a family that has been doing this for a long time, takes it seriously, and genuinely enjoys having people here. The wines have won awards and the estate has the credentials to back up any claim it wants to make. But the reason you leave with a warm feeling isn't the credentials. It's the tea and cake that welcomes you, the extra pour to make up for the rain, or simply the friendly chat as you purchase some steak to take away with your pinot.

• Address: Gay Street, Pulborough, West Sussex, RH20 2HH
• Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 10am–5pm
• Tours: Guided tours every Saturday morning, Easter to Harvest. Private tours available.
• Dogs: Welcome on the vineyard and trail; not permitted inside the cellar door
• Website: nutbournevineyards.com