Returning somewhere you once found merely decent is a far safer gamble than revisiting a favourite. Rather than cherished memories ripe for tarnishing, you arrive with nothing more optimistic than curiosity: have time and promise managed to sharpen the edges?

Hints of Brilliance

Set among the low fields near Thakeham in West Sussex, Kinsbrook's restless energy was apparent on a first visit last June. A dedicated winery was about to launch, a children's play area was under construction, and plans for on-site camping were in the works. There is no fear of trial and error here: an on-site butcher operated for a short period before closing down, and the vineyard simply moved on to the next idea.

Hints of brilliance are on display from the moment of arrival. A traditional Sussex barn with less traditional sweeping panes of glass is an embodiment of what Kinsbrook is: rooted in its place, but pushing at its boundaries. Slices of local cured meats and cheese served during the tasting were exceptional enough that I had planned to buy some from the deli afterwards, only to find the curtains drawn by the time the afternoon tour ended. The wines were pleasant, but at a price point clearly recouping heavy capital investment. They felt, on that day at least, a little outpaced by the ambitious setting.

Views Over the Vines

Checking back on the menu recently revealed a shift, driven by the arrival of head chef Martin Price in April 2026. Where a previous look at the menu showed a relatively limited selection with sparse gluten-free options, the new offering featured no fewer than nine small plates alongside daily specials (alas, the chalk stream cured trout was out).

Stepping into the upstairs restaurant feels like entering a space that has properly settled into itself. The room carries a rustic warmth, anchored by an open kitchen at one end and a farmhouse air that calls to mind the setup at Tillingham. Where Kinsbrook pulls ahead of its East Sussex counterpart, however, is in its frame on the landscape. Rather than small, picture-framed windows, vast multi-fold glass doors stretch along two sides of the building's upper floor. On a warm but windy summer evening, one entire side was folded open to give unobstructed views over the vines, while the opposite glass remained closed against the wind. Downstairs, a separate wood-fired pizza setup caters to informal outdoor dining, but the main dining room upstairs is where the estate's true culinary ambition sits.

The view over Kinsbrook's vines from the restaurant's open multi-fold doors — *The view over the vines from the restaurant's multi-fold doors*

The hospitality extends effortlessly to four-legged guests, too. Noting a dog on the reservation yielded a spacious corner table kept thoughtfully clear of the main service line.

Rich Smoke, Raw Sweetness

A note for gluten-free diners: the current menu offers extensive options, though the open kitchen setup means Kinsbrook can't cater for severe coeliac allergies.

The revised menu lands well because of how naturally its plates carry the estate's new confidence. A dish of charred aubergine and sweetcorn comes anchored by salty feta, balancing rich smoke with raw sweetness. Soft sheep's cheese arrives alongside warm grilled peaches, usually served under a sprinkling of almond granola; ours came with gluten-free crushed walnuts as a thoughtful substitute, giving the same welcome textural crunch.

Grilled peaches with sheep’s cheese and charred aubergine with sweetcorn and feta at Kinsbrook’s restaurant — *Grilled peaches with sheep’s cheese (left) and charred aubergine with sweetcorn and feta (right)*

Charred hispi cabbage in romesco sauce with fermented chilli and sour cream at Kinsbrook’s restaurant — *Charred hispi cabbage in romesco sauce with fermented chilli and sour cream*

Garlic and herb chicken thighs over labneh and cucumber at Kinsbrook’s restaurant — *Garlic and herb chicken thighs over labneh and cucumber*

Pork belly with charred peach purée, walnuts and basil at Kinsbrook's restaurant — *Pork belly with charred peach purée, walnuts and basil*

A Shimmering Ruby

The wine list mirrors this new confidence. The 2022 Chardonnay is one of Kinsbrook's limited-collection bottles, priced well above their standard releases, and sat alongside the grilled pork and chicken without ever getting in the way, exactly the job a wine on a plate-led menu like this one should do.

Beside it sat 'Two', Kinsbrook's 2024 skin-contact rosé made from Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir left on their skins before an extended spell on the fine lees. It pours like a shimmering ruby, deeper than the pale rosés still in fashion, and carries fresh strawberry and raspberry up front, red plum close behind, and a gentle zing of sour cherry underneath. The body stays well-balanced throughout: full enough to carry the flavour, light enough to keep it fresh alongside the charred, smoky plates it was poured against.

The WhatsApp Group Already Knows

You can judge a restaurant by the speed at which you start mentally drafting the guest list for a return trip. Before the first course had even been cleared, names were floating around the table, and by the end of the meal, the WhatsApp group had been notified. Perhaps the site wasn't fully understood on that initial visit, or perhaps a series of key adjustments in the kitchen have elevated the whole experience to match the setting. Either way, returning to Kinsbrook is no longer a low-stakes gamble. It now has a real bar to live up to.

Good to Know

Location: West Chiltington Road, Thakeham, Pulborough, West Sussex, RH20 2LU.
Dining: Café Monday to Wednesday, walk-ins only. Full restaurant Thursday to Sunday, with dinner served Friday and Saturday. Wood-fired pizza runs separately downstairs.
Dog policy: Dog-friendly throughout, let them know when booking.

Kinsbrook Restaurant Review - From Decent to Destination